Front Hubs – Grease and/or Bearing Replacement Needed: 10mm socket – manual freewheel cover bolts 8mm ½ inch socket drive Allen Key – freewheel clutch cover assy 22mm socket – disc caliper bolts 14mm socket – disc caliper bolt expanding (straight) circlip pliers #2 Philips screwdriver (hub nut lock plate) Bearing Grease (80g per side) aenorobic flange sealing material (Loctite 515) Oil seal. Method. Remove the disc caliper assembly. There is a 14mm bolt at the bottom of the floating caliper, remove. Pivot caliper out, remove caliper from top pin and wire to top wishbone. Remove pads. Undo the two 22mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the stub axle. Set hub to “free”. Remove the 6 x 10mm bolts that hold the cover. Carefully remove the cover assembly and the clutch assembly from the hub. Be careful – the clutch mechanism is attached by a simple spring. If the clutch does not want to come out easily, wiggle and poke. If you pull the spring off, you'll need to reassemble it (easy, just adds time). Clear grease. Remove circlip. There are some thrust washers too. Remove them. Remove the 6 allen key bolts. Clear grease thouroughly. Unscrew the philips head lock screws from the locking ring. Remove the locking ring (I use the circlip pliers for this). You now need to unscrew the hub nut – there are two holes in the nut that engage in the special tool. Insert a suitable drift into one and unscrew the nut. The hub/disc assembly now comes off the stub axle. Remove old oil seal from rear of hub. Remove all grease, inspect etc. Repack. Drive new oil seal flush with rear of hub (I used a piece of wood). Re-install and spin on hub nut with something that fits into one of the holes on the hub nut (not the threaded holes!). Do it up tight. Check preload with a spring scale on wheel studs – new bearing + new seal – 2-2.5kg; old bearing+new seal – 1.2-1.8kg. When re-installing the body assembly (the bit bolted with allen keys), use the loctite to seal the mating surfaces so your grease does not escape on hot days. When you come to put the clutch cover back on, you'll find that it won't want to slide into the hub assembly – this is because the spring pushes it off centre. Ease it in. Make sure you put some suitable grease (brake rubber grease) on the caliper slide pin, and make sure you put the dust boot on properly! Bearing Replacement. This is actually easy. Drive off the old bearing outers – the hub has some little half circles milled into the shoulders that let you get a drift onto the outers to drive them out. Hit hard. Use the bearing outer for the outside bearing to drive the new one in. Take the used bearing outer for the inside bearing and remove some metal so that it fits into the hub more easily (I used the bench grinder, wet and dry and a wire brush). Use this to drive in the new inside bearing outer. Oops! The freewheel clutch is in two bits! Easy to fix. Look at the clutch follower. You'll see that there is space machined out of it to accommodate the spring (the little spring that holds it to the “handle” assembly. Screw the end of the little spring into the groove , stop when the end of the spring comes around to the other side of the machined out space. The other part (the “handle” part) engages as shown in the figure. The “hanger nails” are the two bits that are bent inward. They engage into the spring. One side will just poke in, the other needs a screwdriver encouragement. Done. Torque Settings. (All in lb/ft – this is what my venerable wrench is!) 8mm Allen keys – 45lb/ft 22mm Caliper bracket bolts – 110lb/ft 14mm Caliper bolt – 25lb/ft
