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IV. 2 3 OF INOCULATING. 4 5 Sect. 1. About a fortnight before 6or after Midsummer (which is the 7best time, though it may be done from 8the beginning of May till August ) when 9you have pitch'd upon such stocks as are 10fit to be inoculated , choose out a strong 11and well liking branch , or shoot of that 12years growth upon a Tree that bears such 13kind of fruit as you would by this operation 14produce, and about the middle, 15or lower end of it, (for the top will be 16too tender) fix upon a leaf , that hath a 17fresh and fair bud growing out betwixt 18it and the bark, and about half an inch 19below, and above the bud , cut off the 20branch , and so you will have a piece of 21it about an inch long remaining, with 22a bud and a leaf on; this you must cleave 23just through the midst, so as the bud may 24be directly in the middle of the one half; 25and then snip off a part of the leaf , 26or the whole leaving the stalk: and 27holding it by the remainder, clap it to a 28smooth place on the stock; and with a page 30 29Pen-knife score out, on each side of it, 30so much of the stock as it covers, or rather 31a little broader (because when the 32bark on which the bud is, is taken off 33from its own wood and applyed to the 34stock, it will cover a wider space of the 35stock than it did before;) after you have 36thus marked your stock, with-draw the 37Scion again, & cut the bark through where 38you had marked it, then cut the bark cross 39and straight , from the uppermost end of 40one score to the upper end of the other , 41and cut the bark again cross and straight , 42from one score to the other , but not so 43low as the lower ends of the scores by a 44quarter of an inch, then take the oblong 45square piece of bark , that is cut on 46every side quite off the Stock, and raise 47up that part of the bark that remains betwixt 48the side scores , at the bottom of 49the work, from the wood , till you come 50to the lower ends of the side scores . 51 Take then a Goose-quill, cut in the 52fashion of an Apple Scoop , or Scraper , and 53having with your Nail a little loosened 54the upper part of the bark that is on 55the Scion, thrust the quill betwixt the 56bark and the wood , holding it close to 57the wood , that it may separate them, and 58take off with the bark a little wood or page 31 59root of the bud over against it: If you 60see a hole on the inside over against the 61bud , when you have taken the bark off, 62(which is seldom) cast it away, that little 63labour is lost, and try another till 64you find it otherwise. 65 Then put in the lower end of that 66Bark or Scion betwixt the bark that was 67raised on the Stock and the Wood, and 68so bind it on the Stock gently with Woollen-yarn , 69or narrow shreds of Linen-cloth , 70or gentle Stuff , or with Basses , or Bast , 71of which the Russia Mats are made, but 72so that the Scion may lie close to the wood 73of the stock that was made bare, and 74have a special care that you hurt not 75the bud . 76 Sect. 2. There are some other ways 77of inoculating used, differing only in the 78manner of the cut both in the bark of 79the Stock, and of the Scion . 80 And first, some proceeding in all other 81things as is before directed, cut the 82Bark out of the whole length of the side 83scores , and apply the Scion to the disbarked 84place. 85 Secondly, Others cut one slit only, 86down the bark of the Stock , and another 87cross the top of it, like a great T: 88when this is done, they prepare the page 32 89Scion or bark as before directed, (only 90cutting it sharp pointed at the lower end 91before they take the bud off its wood ) 92then raise the bark of the Stock up on 93each side the slit , and put in the Scion, 94beginning at the top and sliding it downward 95gently, and so bind the bark gently 96upon it. This is the common way used 97among Gardiners. 98 Thirdly , You may make the cross cut 99in the middle of the downright score on 100the Stock, and lifting up the four corners 101of the bark , and making the Scion 102sharp at both ends, put it under the bark 103of the Stock at both ends, and then bind 104it. But in doing this there is danger of 105hurting the Scion. 106 Fourthly , Mr. Rea commends the making 107the cross cut at the lower end of the 108down right cut , and having opened the 109sides, put in the Scion upward, being 110made sharp at the upper end only. 111 Thus much to satisfie the curiosity of 112such as have a mind to make tryal of 113every way; but the first that I have described 114at large, I take to be the best. page 33 115 CHAP. V. 116 117 OBSERVATIONS TOUCHING INOCULATING. 118 119 Sect. 1. Lest one bud fail, or any 120mischance break it, put two in every 121Stock , but not directly under one another, 122on the same side of the stock : 123The branch or shoot , you cut one Scion 124off, may yield you several. 125 About a month after the inoculating , or 126sooner, if you perceive the bark swell 127where the binding is, cut off the binding. 128 If it grow it will fix to the Stock , keep 129its colour, and that part of the leaf and 130stalk that was left will drop off, and the 131bud appear fair; then sometime before 132the next spring cut off the top of the stock 133a hands breadth above the place it was 134inoculated at, and all the side-branches , 135that grow any where upon the Stock ; 136and at Spring the bud will put forth, and 137if any other sprouts of buds appear on 138the stock , cut them off. 139 If the first inoculation fail, or the buds 140die, the stocks may be inoculated again 141next Summer; and of such as are inoculated page 34 142timely in the year, it may be sometimes 143seen whether they grow or not, 144time enough to inoculate them again the 145same year. 146 Apricocks will have buds sooner ready 147than other fruit; so that you may begin 148with them, and follow with other 149kinds. 150 Sect. 2. Stocks raised of Peach-stones are 151commonly big enough to be inoculated 152the second Summer, sometimes the first 153after they are set; when they, or any 154other Stocks are an inch and half in compass, 155or thereabouts, they are big enough 156to be inoculated . 157 Those you intend for Wall , or Dwarf-trees , 158are to be inoculated within a handful 159of the ground, and not Pruned at all 160till you remove them, and then you will 161better see what's necessary to be cut off: 162And these you may remove after one 163years growth, or two with more safety. 164 If you inoculate any Plums , Cherries , 165Pears or other Fruit , that you intend 166for an Orchard, or other place, for tall 167standards, you may do it higher on the 168stocks , and Prune these up in the Nursery , 169and let them grow there three or four 170years (according as they grow in height) 171before they be removed. page 35 172 After Stocks that are inoculated have 173made one or two years growth, you must 174cut off the head of the stock , that remain'd 175above the bud at your first cutting 176it: Cut it close to the new branch, 177that it may grow over the cut; let it be 178cut a little slope, and clay'd over, if you 179desire the branch should quickly cover it, 180and the sooner it doth the better. 181 Sect. 3. Care must be had in choosing 182branches , or shoots , from which you are 183to have your buds , that are of strong 184growth, the Bark firm, and not spungy; 185suffer them to fade as little as may be, 186before you use them; and if the fruit you 187design to raise, be at such a distance 188that you cannot have buds to inoculate 189the same day they are cut, put them in 190wet Moss , or Grass in a Box, and so they 191will keep a day and a night very well. 192 Nectarines, Peaches , and Apricocks , are 193seldom raised otherwise than by inoculation ; 194I knew an Apricock graffed in the 195cleft , as likely as might be to grow, but 196failed; I have heard of one graffed in the 197bark that grew. 198 Cherries and Pears take very sure, being 199on young fresh stocks whose bark 200is not thick. page 36 201 The bark of Scions taken from 202some Plums , is so tender and spungy, 203they will often miscarry when inoculated ; 204from such one would choose rather to 205raise by Graffing; but most Plums will 206hit very well being inoculated. 207 Scions of Apples fails for the most part, 208their Bark being tender, and buds weak ; 209but to preserve kind of a dying Apple-tree , 210that I could not well cut a Scion to 211Graff off, I have taken a hungry bud of 212the year foregoing, and it hath taken, 213and grown very well. 214 Pears and Apples succeed very well 215(and the latter best) by taking a bud 216from a shoot of the year foregoing to 217inoculate with. The skill in finding buds 218that are fit for it, which must be short 219and not likely to make buds for blossoms 220is the only difficulty. There is a considerable 221advantage in it, viz. Being 222done in May or the beginning of June , 223and part of the head of the stock cut off, 224the Bud of the shoots the same year, and 225becomes so strong, that it makes a far 226better growth the succeeding year, than 227otherwise it would have done; neither 228is such shoot liable to so many hurtful 229casualties, as a bud is before the ensuing 230spring. And lastly, if it should miscarry page 37 231(as it seldom doth) it will be perceived 232by Midsummer , and the stock may 233be enoculated again the same year. 234 Sect. 4. Where inoculating succeeds 235well, it is to be prefer'd before Graffing. 236 1. Because the stock will be big enough 237to inoculate sooner by two or 238three years , than to graff, and your 239Plant groweth much faster, after the Nature 240is so altered, than it did before, and 241will be sooner ready to Transplant , and 242if it be suffered to grow two or three 243years longer, as it must be before it will 244be fit to be graffed . 245 2. It makes a sounder Tree than one that 246is graffed , especially in the cleft; because 247it covereth the Stock speedily and well. 248 3. It hurts not the Stock so much as 249graffing ; and if it chance to fail, it may 250be inoculated next year again, and sometimes 251the same year . 252 4. It's more speedy , easie , and delightful 253than Graffing , and may be practis'd 254by Gentlemen , who in June may lie on 255the ground and do it; whereas they cannot 256bear the cold without danger of taing 257hurt, in February , or March , which 258is the chief Graffing season. page 38 259 Sect. 5. It is debated among Planters 260what time of the day is best for Inoculating : 261I have heard an Ingenious person 262argue for the morning; because there 263passeth up much more sap , or juice , 264in the day time, than in the night ; as 265was observed by him in piercing the 266Birch tree , and other Trees , to get the 267liquor , that distills out of them, for Physical 268uses; and consequently the bud inoculated 269in the morning, must be more 270likely to grow, having the whole days 271plenty of sap to invite it to unite with 272the Stock , than if it be inoculated late in 273the day, and so must be discouraged in 274its new habitation, by the niggardly 275provision of the nights Sap. If you follow 276this advice, you had best wrap some 277broad leaves , or Fearn , about the stock , 278so as to shade the Scion from the scorching 279heat of the day following, to prevent 280its drying before the Stock hath undertaken 281the charge of preserving it. 282 But this work may be done in the 283middle of the day, if the heat be not 284violent , and then you must (as at all 285times you ought) be very quick in the 286doing of it. page 39 287 And for all that hath been said before, 288the afternoon may be as good a time as 289any; because if the bud have less liquor 290afforded it in the night, then the coolness 291of that time makes it less thirsty; and 292as its thirst encreaseth by the heath of the 293next day, a more plentiful stream will 294be very seasonable to satisfie it. 295 296 CHAP. VI. 297 298 OF THE SEVERAL WAYS OF GRAFFING. 299 300 Sect. 1. As there are several ways 301(as you have seen) of inoculating , 302so are there of Graffing, as now I come 303to let you see; and the first I shall speak 304of is that which is called Slicing , or Packing , 305which I shall describe here at large, 306and so it will serve in part, as a general 307direction for all. 308 Cut off the top of your Stock in some 309smooth straight place; if you do it with 310a Hand-saw , cut it smooth afterward 311with your Knife , leaving the top flat 312and even. page 40 313 Then prepare your Scion or Graff , by 314cutting it on one side, from the joint , or 315seam , (that is, at every years growth) 316down slope-wise in the old wood , till it's 317cut quite off, that the slope may be about 318an inch long, or something more, observing 319its bent, that when the Scion is 320fixed to the Stock it may stand almost 321upright; give a cut then cross through 322the bark at the top of the slope, and then 323cut a thin chip of the slope upward to 324the cross-cut , that there may be a shoulder 325to rest on the top of the Stock , but 326cut not this shoulder too deep, little more 327than through the bark will be enough, 328and this will cause a little rising in the 329sloped part, which you must cut down, 330that the whole slope may be plain and 331smooth, without dints or risings, and 332lie even to the side of the Stock . 333 Cut then the top of the Scion off, close 334about a bud , about four inches above the 335shoulder if it be for a standard Tree, two 336buds above the clay being full enough; 337but for Dwarf , or Wall-trees , you may 338let the Scion be six inches long with several 339buds that they may shoot forth many 340branches, and spread from the very 341Stock. page 41 342 The Scion or Graff thus prepared; lay 343the cut part of the Scion on the West , or 344South-west side of the Stock, and so measure 345and mark the breadth and length 346of it, then cut away so much of the bark 347of the stock, as the cut part of the Scion 348may fit, drawing your Knife upward; 349but as the stock , is bigger, and the bark 350thicker than that on the Scion, so the 351chip must be longer, and broader, or 352else the passage for the sap in the stock 353and Scion, (which is chiefly betwixt the 354bark and the wood ) will not meet together 355(as in the work you will easily see) 356which should be aimed at. 357 Then lay the cut part of the Scion on 358the cut part of the Stock, and bind it 359on with course Woollen-yarn , Basses , or 360the inward peeling of the Witch-tree ; 361if you bind with such a material as will 362not be loose, or rotten by Midsummer, 363about that time give it a cut cross-wise 364with a Knife to set the Prisoners at liberty. 365 Have in readiness good Clay , free from 366Stones, mixt with long Hay, and daub it 367about the Stock and Scion, a full inch above 368and below the head of the Stock, 369work it up round the Scion till it be sharp 370at the top, that the rain water may run page 42 371down it; and with a Knife or little 372trowel dipt in water smooth over the 373clay; in doing this be sure not to displace 374the Scion. 375 Thus you may Graff Pears , Plums , 376Cherries , and Apples , if it be before the 377bark of the Stock will part from the wood 378of them, for when it will, the next way 379following is better. page 114 380 CHAP. XII. 381 382 OF THE ANNOYANCES ABOUT FRUIT-TREES, AND OF 383SOME MISTAKES IN PLANTING AND ORDERING 384THEM. 385 386 Sect 1. The nature of the soil is 387the chief cause of Moss and Canker , 388and therefore without altering the one 389you can scarce prevent the other; However 390you may scrape or with a hair-cloth 391rub the moss off, after rain, or (as some 392say) burn it with a bottle of straw under 393the Tree. 394 All Canker , filth , and worms must be 395picked clean off, and bind some clay well 396mixt with hay about the canker'd place: 397If the Tree grow but poorly, which is 398for the most part caused by the ill temper 399of the soil , open the ground about, 400the roots , and put in some manure proper 401to cure it. 402 Slitting the bark is an excellent additional 403help to most of the foresaid evils, 404and also for bark-binding , some advice that 405the bark be cut according to the grain of 406it, as in Apple-trees , Pear-trees , &c. straight 407down; in Cherries , &c. round about the 408Trees. page 115 409 But I have found in the same land, 410some kinds of Fruit-trees very subject to 411some of these evils ; and others prosper 412very well; when once you discover this, 413(because it's utterly in vain to make 414ground and trees, of different genius agree 415together) you must make it your 416business by degrees, to change your Trees, 417till you have left none against which 418your soil beareth such an implacable hatred, 419and furnish it with such as will 420flourish, and be fruitful. 421 If any of your Trees are galled , by being 422bound to stakes , or by thorns , or otherwise, 423lay some clay upon the gall'd place 424and wrap hay-bands about them. 425 Big Plants also, that upon their removal 426have had their tops cut off, are apt to 427die from the place they were cut off at, 428to the next sprig , or branch upon them; 429these dead parts ought to be cut off close 430to the next good twig or shoot , and covered 431with clay , as in graffing , that the head 432may be well grown over, by such twig 433or shoot , and the wet prevented of getting 434into the pith , to damage the Tree. 435 Sect. 2. Hares and Rabbets are very 436mischievous to Nurseries , and young 437Orchards , by peeling off the bark of the 438Plants : If your fence be a wall, or close page 116 439pale, or water, there's little danger of 440them; but because such fences about 441Orchards are rare, and no other can keep 442them out, some expedient must be made 443use of. 444 Some have used Hay-ropes , bound about 445the Tree, from the ground to a 446sufficient height; but this were endless 447in a Nursery , it may be done in an Orchard ; 448but there are other ways to be 449preferred before it. 450 Others therefore dawb the bodies of 451the trees over with Tar , which being 452used alone, endangers the life of very 453young Plants , and extreamly hardens 454the bark , and otherwise hurts them, 455which evil is prevented by mixing the 456Tar with any kind of Grease, and boiling 457them on a fire, so as both may incorporate, 458then with a brush, or little 459broom, daub over the body of the Tree, 460as high as Hare or Rabbet can reach; and 461if this be done in November , it will preserve 462the Trees for that whole year, 463with that once doing, it being the winter 464time only that they will feed upon the 465bark . 466 Some use Grease alone, and then it 467may require to be laid on twice in a 468Winter. page 117 469 Some thin stuff out of a House of Office , 470or the thick tempered with Water, and 471brush'd on once in a Winter hath been 472often used with good success. Or the 473White-wash which Plasterers white Houses 474with, done once a Year over the Trees 475with a Brush, preserves them from Hares , 476Rabbits , or Deer . 477 Sect. 3. If you find Pismires or Ants 478breed about, or near the roots of any of 479your Trees, cast away the Earth they 480lodge in, and supply its place with some 481stiff clay ; if they breed distant in several 482places, some direct to daub the Tree about 483with Tar , that their Feet may be 484taken in it; but you heard already that's 485prejudicial to young Trees; but if they 486pester you extreamly, and your Tree be 487young, you may bind a single list , or 488shread of Cloth about it, and once a week 489(when Buds and Blossoms are putting 490forth, for that is the chief time they 491prejudice them) daub the Cloth over with 492Tar . 493 Sect. 4. Moles are to be kill'd, especially 494in Seed-plots and Nurseries; Spring-traps; 495or Box-traps are best to destroy 496them, not easily describ'd, but are now 497known almost generally. page 118 498 I have heard that Water Rats will spoil 499a whole Nursery , getting through Moleholes ; 500and barking or eating the young 501Roots : I found several Roots so served; 502and it being near a Fish-pond , I suspected 503it was done by them; but finding also 504a Snake in a hole among the Roots, I 505knew not whether that might not be the 506Enemy. 507 Ests , or (as some call them) Askers , 508are also said to be pernicious to Trees; 509but these three last accidents are so rare 510and inconsiderable, that it's needless to labour 511much about Remedies against them, 512only as men find them to destroy them. 513 Sect. 5. The greatest prejudice to fruit , 514is by blastings , frosts immediately succeeding 515rain, Caterpillars , or black Flies , 516that eat up buds , leaves , and blossoms : 517There's one way used to help in all these 518cases, for Orchard-fruit ; but I know not 519how it should be useful for any but the 520last two, for which I dare commend it. 521And that is, that when in the Spring 522you perceive these Caterpillars , or Flies 523appear, make fires of something that 524will smoak, so near the Orchard , and in 525such places that the wind may carry the 526smoak as much through the Trees as may 527be. A thing frequently used is Hempsheaves , page 119 528(as it's called) being the stalk 529of the Hemp , when the tow is separated 530from it, and its certainly very good; 531but bad Chaff ; wet straw , or moldy Hay , or 532any thing of that nature may serve turn. 533 Snails are pernicious to Wall-fruit , 534therefore destroy as many of them as 535you can, when they are best to be 536discovered, which is early in the morning. 537 And to preserve your Wall-fruit from 538blasting winds and Frosts ; it will be necessary 539to cover them in the nights, and 540cold days by hanging before them Matts 541or Blankets : some stick branches of broom 542before the blossoms and young tender 543fruit . 544 To preserve ripe fruit from birds , spread 545an old Net , before the Wall-fruit , or upon 546the Dwarf-trees . 547 Sect. 6. I have endeavour'd to direct 548the Reader by true Rules, which if observed, 549he would not fall into those 550vulgar Errors which are frequent in practice; 551but because for want of warning, 552some people may continue in them, 553thinking they have a further knowledge 554or better Judgment, I shall endeavour to 555refute those I have most taken notice 556off in use. page 120 557 1. Some set Trees too deep, and plead 558for it, that otherwise the Tree may be 559in danger of dying, if the next Summer 560prove very hot: But to prevent 561that hazard it's better to raise Earth about 562it, and cover it with Dung, Fearn, 563or Straw, and in the Summer with the 564Grass mowed from Grass-plots, and 565set it not too deep whereby the Tree 566may put forth its Roots in the upper 567Turf, which is generally the best 568Land in all Ground. For in some Land 569a deep hole will draw in Water in the 570Winter, which standing under and about 571the Roots, may chill and starve 572them; other Lands in the bottom are 573Rocky , have a Fox-bent , Cat-brain , or 574stiff Clay , and binding Gravel , unfit for 575Trees to root in, and yet may have 576that depth of Earth above it, that some 577Fruit-trees being set light, may prosper 578reasonably well. 579 2. Others for curiosity use graffing several 580kinds of Fruit on one Stock, which 581hath often this Evil, that the one kind 582(being of swifter growth than the other) 583overtops and keeps under its fellow. 584But if a Man have a few Trees 585in a secure place, he may graff two or 586three sorts on one Head of choice Summer page 121 587Fruit, whereof he is content with a 588little Fruit of each kind of eating only; 589and by pruning he may make them grow 590somewhat equal. 591 3. Some out of curiosity (instead of 592Clay ) when they graff Trees , cover the 593Heads of the Stocks with Lime mix'd 594with Hair; others with Bees-wax or 595some such things compounded; the first 596of which groweth so hard that the Stock 597cannot grow to cover, nor the Scion enlarge 598it self as it would, and the Lime 599kills often Stock and all, as will salt Clay, 600such as is used on Drinking-Vessels; the 601latter is either melted by the heat of the 602Sun in Summer, and runs off the Stock, 603and being thin, the heat of the Sun 604hardens the Sap which the Stock puts 605up to a Crust, that it groweth not to 606bark or wood, as it should do; and 607if it be compounded of so hard a substance 608that it melteth not, it hath the 609like effect as the Lime: So that upon 610tryal, there is nothing better than good 611Clay mix'd with long Hay; and laid on 612somewhat thick, for that keeps it from 613the heat of the Sun, as well as too much 614wet, and with Hay it will keep on much 615longer than otherwise. page 122 616 4. Many neglect keeping the Heads 617of Stocks clay'd after the first time when 618they are graffed, but it's very necessary 619to do it till the Stock be near covered, 620for it hastens it in covering, whereby 621the Scions grow faster, and wet is prevented 622from the perishing the Stock. 623 5. Another Evil is, when Men set 624well grown Trees, that they must cut 625off the Head where it may be an inch 626over; they consider not to cut it at a 627Branch, and so the top often dieth a 628little at the Head; whereas if they did 629cut it off a little sloap at a Branch or small 630Sprig, and put Clay thereon, as in graffing, 631that Branch would cover the top, 632and keep the Heart sound. If you do 633it not at the setting of the Tree, then 634the Year after, when it hath put forth 635Branches, cut off the top sloap-wise, 636where it is alive, at the uppermost Branch 637you would preserve, and then clay it: 638You will find advantage in the growth 639of the top and soundness of the body of 640the Tree. 641 6. In pruning big Branches of any 642Tree, do it in March , and cut it not 643so close to the Body as to hurt it, nor 644yet so long that it be a Stump, but leave 645it highest in the middle, for then it will page 123 646not have so deep a hole in its growing 647to cover, which otherwise it's apt 648to have, and to hold the wet. This pruning 649can be no ways so well done as 650with such a broad Chissel as I have described. 651 7. The first Summer after you have 652set a Tree, some let Shoots grow out 653near the Butt, and in several places on 654the Body, though so low that they never 655intend they shall continue. These 656had best be cut off at the first springing 657out, that they rob not the top of 658Sap. 659 If you have any high Standards, 660such as are proper to be planted in 661Fields, or Forest Trees in Avenues, it 662will be necessary to have such another 663Chissel; but instead of an Iron handle let 664it be made with a Socket, which fix 665on a Staff about two or three yards long, 666and let it have Edges likewise on the 667lower part on each side the Socket; 668with this you may, as you walk about 669your Trees, cut off such young Shoots 670as grow out of the hands reach, and yet 671such as you would not have continue, 672first cutting them upwards, and then 673with the other Edge cutting downwards 674the little Tippet left on the upper page 124 675side, that it be smooth, and even to 676the Body. 677 8. I have known some Country Gardiners 678in pruning Wall-Fruit-trees yearly 679cut off the young Shoots or Branches 680that grew side-ward, as well as outward, 681from the Elder-wood, and leave the 682Wall almost bare; whereas it's those 683young Shoots chiefly that bear Fruit 684the Year following: And therefore the 685better to inform the Reader in Pruning, 686it will be necessary to shew what Years 687Branches bear Fruit in each kind, or in 688the most common sort of Fruit-trees. 689 1. Vines and Shrubs , as Gooseberries , 690Currans , &c. bear Fruit for the most 691part on the Branches they put forth 692the same Year, so that in pruning these 693you may cut off much of the Shoots of 694the foregoing Year, and old Wood , as 695you see occasion, and there will be the 696more Sap to put forth fresh ones the Year 697after, provided you leave plenty of 698Buds for them to put forth at, and 699with this Caution, that such as grow very 700luxurious in Wood are not apt to bear, 701and there the more you cut off, the 702more they will run into the same Evil. page 125 703 2. Stone Fruit-trees , generally bear 704on the Branches of the foregoing Year, 705therefore leave a sufficient number of 706them. 707 3. Apple and Pear-trees bear Fruit on 708the Branches that are of two years growth 709before the bearing year. 710 And thus you shall find it for the most 711part; and although Fruit may often in 712all these sorts seem to be on older Wood 713than I mention, yet if you search into 714it you will find (where it seems so) 715that it grows on some sort short Stalk put 716forth as near (as can be judged) as I 717have set it down. 718 You will therefore find it often necessary 719to practice the direction formerly 720given in this Book of taking off some of 721the old Wood of Trees, Chap. 8. Sect. 7. 722And when your Trees are young let 723them not fill the Wall so thick as many 724Trees are apt to do, otherwise you 725will find many will not bear well young, 726and when they grow bigger you must 727cut them thinner, which will be worse 728for the Tree. 729 Another Evil is common in suffering 730too much Fruit to grow upon Trees 731(especially Wall-Trees) wherefore if it 732be so, pluck off some where they stand page 126 733in Clusters, Green Apricocks will serve 734for Tarts. 735 These foregoing Observations may 736seem trivial and of small concern; but 737you will find a due observation of them 738will conduce much to the health and 739welfare of your Trees and Fruit. 740 741 CHAP. XIII. 742 743 SOME PARTICULAR RULES ABOUT SOME 744KINDS OF FRUIT-TREES BESIDES THE 745GENERAL RULES ALREADY MENTIONED. 746 747 Sect. 1. Grapes seldom or never ripen 748well in this Isle. without help 749of Art and Industry, to which purpose 750take these directions. 751 1. To plant such as ripen soonest in 752the Year, that they may have as much of 753the summer heat at ripening time as may 754be. 755 2. Let the Wall you plant them against 756be a full South , or but a little inclining 757to the East ; or if you have a half-round , 758or corner in a Wall, or the back of page 127 759a brick Chimney, make use of such places 760for them. 761 Vines will prosper well against a high 762Wall, yet that is not altogether so necessary 763but that low Walls may serve turn, 764and the higher may be reserved for such 765Fruit-trees as will not do well without 766them: That of a Tarras-walk may do 767well for Vines , and the Gravel-walk under 768the Wall will mightily encrease the 769heat about them. 770 If you plant any Trees against your 771Dwelling-house wall , there may be some 772narrow places between two Windows, 773or the like, where other Fruit-trees have 774not room to spread: A Vine may grow 775up there, and above those narrow places 776enlarge it self where ever it meets with 777room. 778 You may also plant a Vine betwixt every 779fruit-tree that groweth against your 780hottest walls , and let it spread a little in 781the Summer time into the Fruit-trees on 782either side especially if the fruit of such 783Trees use to be early ripe, or that they 784bear little Fruit, or have not been so 785long set as to have covered the Wall. 786And though such Vines cannot extend 787themselves to that bigness, as those 788planted where they have more room; page 128 789yet by this means you will make advantage 790of such portions of your Wall, 791as otherwise you could have had little benefit 792from. 793 Sect. 2. The best ground for them is 794that which is rich and dry , inclinable to 795stony or gravel , so it bind not; the best 796Dung to fatten the Earth they grow in is 797Horse or Sheeps-dung: Make bare the 798Roots in the beginning of Winter, and 799throw in plenty of the same Dung most 800Winters. 801 The best way of propagating of them 802is, in November to lay a Branch of that 803Years growth into the Earth, under the 804old Tree, without cutting it off, lay as 805many joynts or buds in the Farth as you 806can, leaving but one or two out; for it 807puts forth its roots chiefly at the joynts 808at a Years end, or in the February come 809twelve month , cut it off from the old 810one, and plant it where you design it 811should grow; lay it in the Earth in the 812same posture it lay in before, and also 813lay some of the Buds of the new wood , 814that grew out since it was first laid down, 815that it may gain the more Roots , leaving 816out of the ground again not above one 817or two buds . page 129 818 You may chance to have Suckers 819of an old Vine which will be sure to 820grow. 821 Or you may take Cuttings of Vine-branches 822of that Years growth, and set 823them in good warm loose Land, and many 824will grow; if it be in the place you intend 825they shall always stand in, next 826year lay down a part of that which hath 827grown out, to root also, or else upon 828removal lay in the new growth all but 829a bud or two, with that part which is already 830rooted: If it have made but small 831growth the first year , lay part of the 832second years growth in the ground, it 833will more advantage them by helping 834them to good roots , than the loss of a 835year or two's growth in the top will amount 836to. 837 If you have an old Vine , that beareth 838not well, lay down in February , or 839March some of the strongest branches of 840the foregoing year , (that grow low) in 841the mold under the old Tree, without 842cutting them off, leaving out of the 843ground a bud or two to grow, and your 844wall will quickly be furnished with new, 845and fresh branches ; so that by degrees 846you may cut off many of the old branches 847of the Vine; for though one Vine may page 130 848cover abundance of walling, yet three or 849four roots in that compass will strengthen 850it the more to bear. 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